Wednesday 20 February 2008

The Legend of the Bibi Khanum Mosque

Near by is the Bibi Khanum Mosque which towers over the low rise city; the silhouette of the huge cupola reflecting the vault of heaven. This mosque was begun in 1399 after Timur had returned from a victorious Indian campaign. Obviously in ebullient mood, Timur declared that the mosque must outshine everything he had seen in those distant lands – quite a challenge. Two hundred craftsmen duly arrived from all over the East and a further five hundred worked nearby quarries in Pendjekent to deliver the necessary stone. The construction work lasted over five years. Having itchy conquering feet, Timur couldn’t hang about in Samarkand for that long and left on another campaign. When he returned he inspected the new building with its 130m x 102m courtyard, vast inner yard of marble, closed gallery for prayer, 50m high minarets and walls embellished with glazed bricks of different colours which formed original geometric ornamental patterns and religious sayings. The luxurious internal decorations included majolica mosaic, carved marble, papier-mâché stamping and gilded ornaments.

But he didn’t like it.

In despotic temper he ordered the arrest of the foremen – Khodja Mukhmud David and Mukhammed Djeld and summarily sentenced them to death. After all that work they were hanged at the foot of the Chupanata mountains.

Legend tells a similarly colourful story regarding the construction of the Bibi Khanum mosque:

Bibi Khanum was Timur’s favourite of his eight wives. She was a Chinese or Mongolian princess and famed for her great beauty and grace. Concerned that the building would not be ready in time to welcome her husband home from his adventures, Bibi Khanum hurried the Persian chief architect to complete the construction. However, he was charmed with the beauty of the princess and did not press the builders, fancying sticking around for a while longer. But while he was contemplating how attractive this particular housewife was, news arrived announcing the forthcoming return of Timur to Samarkand.

Bibi-Khanum confronted the architect in a rage; he attempted to broker a deal: "The mosque will be completed in time, but you must present me a kiss". She was indignant: "I will present you anyone of my slaves you wish. Why are you gazing only at me? Look on these painted eggs, they are of different colours and do not look like each other, but break them and you will see that they do not differ. We women are like that".But the architect insisted: "I'll answer you. Here are two identical glasses. I'll pour water in one and the white wine in another. They are still identical. But when I taste them, one will burn me with the molten fire, while another will do nothing. Love is like that."
Timur was closing in; Bibi Khanum was upset – but not that upset. The architect was young and handsome and she relented. He bent forward to kiss her. At the last moment she tried to shield her face by her palm, but the kiss was so passionate that the ardour broke through her hand and left a red spot on her cheek. Several days later Timur entered into the city. He was surprised by the beauty and magnificence of cupolas and minarets. But his joy was darkened when he saw the trace of the kiss on his wife's face. Timur was angered and Bibi Khanum revealed the truth.The architect was ordered to show himself. I fear of his life he desisted and ascended the minaret with his assistant, but Timur’s men were following closely behind. When the soldiers entered the room at the top, the assistant was alone. "Where is the architect?" asked the soldiers. "The teacher made the wings and flew to Meshed" was the romantic answer.

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